About the Tour

From Sunday 24th Ben and Richard begin their epic tour of the U.S. as part of the British Debate squad. Each year since 1922 the ESU has selected two debaters to travel the length and breadth of the country to debate, adjudicate and get a taste of life in the U.S. We'll try and keep an entertaining record of our travels on here and if you're in the U.S. let us know if we're coming to a place near you.

Thursday 27 October 2011

Waco, Baylor University

Last but not least we arrived in Waco, Texas. We arrived in a tiny propeller plane where (either reassuringly or not) almost every other passenger seemed to know each other, and even the flight attendants seemed uncertain whether we would land safely. After emerging from the miniscule airport at Waco we were greeted by our generous host Matt from Baylor University. Baylor is a high performing school whose reputation in Texas had preceded our arrival. Although traditionally a strictly conservative school with a strong Jesuit tradition the debate team appeared to somewhat challenge that reputation and were a really great group.


After meeting the team we were whisked through the lush surroundings of Waco to George W. Bush’s favourite culinary establishment (his ranch is just a short drive away) suitably named “George’s”. It’s a homely kind of place, the sort of place a ‘man of the people’ type of President might appreciate, a kind of grab a seat and a beer (or seven) before ordering food. Our first sight (to the despair and horror of our hosts) was a portly chap sat amidst his litter of teenage children who was sporting rather proudly a large confederate flag tattoo on his arm. We wondered how George might react. After some excellent catfish and some really good local beer we headed back. Afterwards we were taken to popular student haunt/ karaoke bar Scruffy Murphies where we made up for our lost beer pong record by beating our American hosts (and Kyle in particular) at pool.


Awaking in the luxurious splendour of the Hilton in Waco we were fed a rather hearty Mexican lunch, as we gasped at the prospect of our ever expanding arteries. We were then taken to see the Baylor Bear, actually a pair of live bears which double as the university’s mascot and a source of attraction for visitors. Having previously lived a rather stunted existence in a concrete pit the bears received a new $5 million enclosure, apparently as a result of a school student complaining to PETA. After a tour of the vast zoo which is on the edge of campus and the stunning and lush (in the literal sense, not in the Gavin and Stacy sense you pleb) local surroundings we prepared for our evening’s debate. It was always going to be an uphill struggle we had to convince the conservative audience (after recent wall to wall coverage of drone strikes) and with a significant military component that we should never use drone strikes. After one of the best debates we’ve had we succumbed to a very close defeat by our excellent opposition. As a perfect means to ameliorate our loss we were taken to a fantastic restaurant where Richard sampled some fine Surf and Turf and Ben ate sixteen ounces of prime rib. The whole meal was rounded off with six of us attempting to demolish the hulking dessert monstrosity that was the ‘chocolate sack’. Despite being the size of a small infant we attempted to demolish a mountain of cream, ice cream, berries and sponge encased in solid chocolate. Barely able to move we none the less drowned our sorrows at Scruffy Murphy’s and witnessed an eclectic mix of old school hip hop, classic country and Bob Dylan.


Our final day in Waco took us to yet more food this time for lunch at the ironically named ‘Health Club’ followed by a visit to Waco’s very own tribute to type II diabetes, the Dr. Pepper Museum. We learned that its inventor was a bit of a mug, receiving almost no share of the profits and that adverts in the 1950s seemed to indicate that viewers were phenomenally gullible. Our final few hours ended with a rather sombre visit to a small but beautiful rural area just outside of Waco. This is the spot (ironically not in Waco) at which for 52 days the FBI besieged the compound of the Branch Davidian’s loopy leader David Koresch. The chain of events on the last day are unclear, after some time the FBI attempted to enter the compound with an armoured vehicle, almost immediately a fire started. In the ensuing flames over 80 of his followers died (most of the population) including many young children. Even nearly two decades on the place has an eerie and sombre feel. The foundations of the burnt out basement still visible along with the narrow and isolated escape routes.

Despite a moving end to our visit we had a great time at Baylor. Waco was a cracking place to visit and we were left with regret that most people don’t see past the association with such a tragic event. Having received a generous late night lift from one of our new found friends Alex we prepared for our trip to New Haven, Connecticut and the tournament at Yale.

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